Sunken Treasure Scuba Center started in 1978 with a small store in Jersey Shore to serve the growing number of scuba divers in our area. Today Sunken Treasure is the authorized dealer for over 30 lines of equipment to serve your diving needs. As a full service scuba center we can take care of anything most divers could need or want including: air fills, regulator repairs & annual service, tank hydros and VIP's, new equipment, rentals and dive trips from local to the exotic travel. Below are just some of the lines we handle. You're not familiar with one of these lines? Stop in and let us show you.

 

Akona - Accessories and Gear Bags - http://www.akona.com
Aries - Dive Computers - http://www.diveaeris.com
Cetacea - accessory clips - http://www.cetaceacorp.com
Dive into Your Imagination - http://www.diveintoyourimagination.com
Diversitea - Herbal Teas & Homeopathic Products - http://www.diversitea.com
Force Fins by Bob Evans Designs - http://www.forcefin.com
Fourth Element - Thermal Protection - http://www.fourthelement.com
Genesis - Full Line Mfg - www.genesisscuba.com
Hollis - Scuba & Tech Gear Manufacture - http://www.hollisgear.com/home.asp

Henderson Aquatics - wet suits - http://www.hendersonusa.com
Innovative Scuba Concepts - Accessories - http://www.innovativescuba.com
Intova - u/w digital cameras - http://www.intova.net
JAWS - Spit & other natural cleaners - http://www.jawsproducts.com/
JW Fisher - metal detectors - http://www.jwfishers.com/
Light & Motion - high end dive lights - http://www.uwimaging.com/
Macks - Ear Dryer - http://www.dryear.net
Marine Sports - http://www.marinesportsmfg.com
McNett - care products - http://www.mcnett.com
Ocean Potion - Sun Care Products - oceanpotion.com
O.S. System Dry Suits - http://www.ossystems.com
PADI - travel & educational supplies - www.padi.com
Pelican - lights & air tight cases - www.pelican.com
Princeton Tec - Lights - http://www.princetontec.com
Redline - lights & tools -www.nebotools.com
Sea Dine - U/W Fish Food - http://seadine.com
Sea Pearls - Weights - http://www.seapearls.com
Sea & Sea USA - Cameras - http://www.seaandsea.com
Sea Soft Scuba - Accessories - http://www.seasoftscuba.com/
Sea Vision - Optical Masks - http://www.seavisionusa.com
Scuba Max - Full Line Mfg - http://www.escubamax.com 
  Sherwood Scuba - Full Line Mfg - http://www.sherwoodscuba.com
Trident - Diving Accessories - http://www.tridentdive.com
Waterproof Diving International - http://www.waterproof-usa.com/
XIT 404 - home of the Aqua Pencil &u/w slates - www.XIT404.com
XS Scuba - Everything for the perfect Dive - http://www.xsscuba.com
Zeagle - BCD's and Regulators - http://www.zeagle.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Support Your Local Dive Store by Gary Worden

The best deal in diving is an active and thriving local dive store. Dive stores are the driving force and center of activity for our sport, and if they're not supported, they go away. When that happens, a diver's easy access to good advice and training, equipment, supplies, air, dive travel, and camaraderie becomes limited and, perhaps, even disappears.
Everyone wants good dive prices, but like so many other things, price is only part of a "good deal." Making sure that your local dive store is doing well keeps the supply and communication lines open and ensures that the right environment exists so you can easily continue to enjoy the adventures and challenges that recreational diving offers.
A primary and crucial dive store responsibility is providing initial and advanced training in a professional and safety-conscious manner. With the guidance and help of the various certification agencies, most dive stores provide excellent programs. As a diver, you should consider increasing your diving knowledge and abilities by adding to your basic certification card.
It's our hope that Dive Training magazine can also add another dimension to your experience. As you go through our issues, take a quick look at the lower left corner of each page. You'll see six words that present the theme, direction, and emphasis this publication takes.
"A good diver is always learning" is not only a truism, but an attitude that should be nurtured and developed by every diver, young or old, novice or professional. Dive Training is intended to help foster and encourage this attitude. Each monthly issue presents information that we hope will nourish understanding of diving environments, heighten interest, suggest concepts, promote additional training, and stress dive safety. The publication tries to be realistic and honest in its editorial approach.
In your early days of diving, learning the basics well is an important responsibility. Periodically reviewing those basics, and increasing your knowledge through continuing education will help make diving a safer, more enjoyable activity. You and your dive store are vital ingredients in this learning process. It's a mutual partnership that benefits each of you.

We hope Dive Training Magazine can be of help to both of you.

Reprinted from Dive Training Magazine.
Stop by Sunken Treasure and pick-up a complimentary copy of Dive Training Magazine today.

Why Buy Gear?>>>>by Mark Twombly

Scuba diving, like many recreational activities, is equipment intensive. Recreational diving has grown from an obscure sport practiced by a small band of youthful and athletic adventurers into an activity enjoyed by millions around the world in all kinds of water. Increasingly sophisticated and reliable equipment, and the training to use it properly, are largely responsible for that growth.
Whether an item of dive gear is considered essential or desirable, each was conceived and developed to satisfy a definite need and perform a specific function. From regulator to gauges, mask to fins, and buoyancy compensator to wet suit, recreational scuba equipment is purposeful, interesting to use, and a big contributor to the overall fascination and attraction of diving.
Acquiring your own dive equipment is a major factor in the enjoyment of the sport. Sure, you can rent gear at many dive destinations, but do you really want to rely on the availability of much-used rental equipment for your personal safety and enjoyment of diving?
Owning your own dive gear has many advantages. As a beginning Open Water certification student, you can speed your learning curve and progress quickly into the open-water environment by purchasing and using a basic dive equipment package-regulator and BC in addition to mask, snorkel, and fins. Learning how to scuba dive involves a lot more than learning how to breathe through a regulator underwater. You learn the art of buoyancy control, the subtleties of swimming and streamlining, and a host of other skills. Acquiring these skills quickly and comfortably has a lot to do with the equipment you use in training. If the BC is too small, you will struggle with it, which interferes with your learning. Fit and comfort are the prime criteria in selecting most items of dive gear, and in achieving maximum safety and pleasure underwater. The best way to ensure that your gear fits correctly and comfortable is to wear your own.
Even if loaner or rental equipment fits well, it may not be right for you because of particular features-or lack of them. Features are what distinguish one item of dive gear from another. When you buy your own gear, you evaluate and choose the features you need and appreciate. The process is fun, adds greatly to your knowledge of diving, and ensures that the gear you dive with does what you want it to, the way you want it to.
You will know how to operate it properly and care for it responsibly. You will know the condition of your gear, where it has been, and who has been using it. That familiarity contributes to the highest level of safety, which in turn gives you peace of mind.
Other less obvious but still important benefits accrue from owning dive gear. Buying gear deepens your relationship with your dive store. That store is your conduit to diving. It offers training opportunities, arranges trips, keeps you in contact with other divers, and services and supports your equipment. Having your own equipment also marks you as a serious, committed diver, and it encourages you to dive regularly, to stay involved in the sport.
The bottom line on equipment ownership: It's the way to achieve maximum enjoyment of diving. At Dive Training magazine we believe that part of the commitment you are making to learn to dive should include acquiring your own dive gear. It's an excellent investment in yourself and in your future diving adventures.

What is the True Cost of Diving?
Like many other hobbies, SCUBA is an equipment intensive activity. You can't dive and stay underwater without the proper equipment. Equipment needed is also determined by what time of the year and where you are diving. To say the least, it will cost you money to dive. Now as a new diver there are a number of ways to reduce the cost, especially here at STSC.

  • Twice a year STSC has a free gear day so you can dive with us at a local site while owning nothing but mask, snorkel,  & fins.
  • We have an option called the 6 Pak Program. With this program, you can make 6 local dives with a STSC staff member and equipment is provided, all for only $99.00.
  • Other than purchasing everything, STSC has rental options. You can rent a few items or you can get the "I need everything" rental for just $45.00 a day.
  • As a certified diver while traveling with us on any of the STSC week long dive trips, you can rent gear at half of the normal rate.

After becoming certified, chances are you'll want to own your own equipment and STSC offers a large range of prices for equipment that will fit your needs and be within your budget. In addition to the wide price ranges, STSC also offers in-store financing for 48 months on any purchase,  90 days same as cash. Stop in at STSC, we'll be happy to go over the lines we carry and the costs.

The equipment below is typically what a recreational diver might own:

Thermal Protection could be one or more of the following:
>>>Shorty Wet Suits $60 - $215
>>>3mm One Piece Suits $109 - $305
>>>5mm One Piece Suits $119 - $369
>>>7mm Two Piece Suits $185 - $578
BCD's $245 - $695
Regulators $209 - $609
Alternate Second Stage (Octo) $60 - $196
Tanks $180 - $410 which include 10 free air fills
Gauges:
>>>Air Console $159 - $240
>>>Nitrox Consoles $339 to hoseless integrated $795

Equipment packages are also available

For example: Our summer package includes: thermal protection, BCD, regulator, alternate air source, gauges and tank for $912.95 plus tax or $29.37 for 48 months, or 90 days same as cash.

Price alone shouldn't determine what equipment you buy and where you purchase it. Shopping locally at STSC you will have the opportunity to talk to one of the knowledgeable staff members who can help determine what gear is best suited for your needs. In addition, you will also be able to try on some of the gear to make sure that it fits properly and that it is comfortable. In most cases, the staff has the knowledge and certification necessary to provide factory authorized maintenance and repairs on-site. Scuba centers are only authorized to service products they sell and therefore, equipment not purchased locally may have to be returned for annual service, which is very costly.

At STSC, we have pride in our high level of customer service and the ability to take care of our customers needs. So the next time you are looking for gear, come in and give our staff a chance to earn your trust and your business. Hope to see you at a dive site soon and thank you.

Equipment Warranty 101...So what's it worth to YOU ?

Remember, in order to keep your equipment in its best operating order and keep the warranty valid, it must be serviced each and every year, even if it hasn't been used. When servicing a regulator at Sunken Treasure, we take the regulator completely apart, clean and check all parts, and replace any worn or bad parts. The regulator is then reassembled, adjusted, and tested. The gauges on your regulator are a separate item and should be returned to the manufacturer every two years for testing and recalibration. If something doesn't seem correct then it should be checked right away. A tank visual inspection do not include valve service, which should be done every 3-5 years, depending on use. BCD warranty checks include checking for leaks, over pressure relief and dump valves working OK, and cleaning and lubrication of the power inflator.
Prices for these services run from FREE to $35.00 depending on the item. The cost of parts on items not under warranty is not included.

The Importance of Buying Gear from Your Local Scuba Center 

Owning diving equipment represents a long-term investment in fun and safety. A good set of dive gear can last through years of diving and travel, take you to unforgettable experiences in incredible underwater environments, and bring you home safely. It is important to buy the right gear for the type of diving you will do, ensure that it fits and is comfortable, be trained in its use and keep it serviced at recommended intervals.
Diving equipment manufacturers sell and service their products through a network of authorized dealers. These dealers understand the product features, benefits and applications, are authorized to fit, assemble and service your gear and are your link to the manufacturer for sales, service, performance, warranty, notification and upgrade issues.
It is very possible for you to purchase dive gear from non authorized dealers and not be aware of some serious issues. For example, many Internet sellers acquire the product they sell through gray market (third-party) channels. They may not be authorized to sell or service a particular product, are not trained by the manufacturer, may not ship it assembled, may sell it without the original parts or sell items that have been used or returned. For those reasons some manufacturers do not warrant products sold by unauthorized resellers, who in turn may sell gear without a warranty enclosed, or include their own warranties that appear valid but are not recognized by the manufacturer. There may also be issues with post-sale assembly, service and notifications, parts costs, and exchanges.
Dive gear is incredibly dependable, but it IS life-support equipment, engineered to take you where humans aren’t designed to go. Each piece of gear has a specialized purpose, and the aspects surrounding product education, fit, function and service may be as important to you personally as is the equipment itself. It’s all part of the value equation, and why it is important to buy your equipment only through authorized dealers.
If you question whether a particular reseller is an authorized dealer, it’s pretty simple. Call the manufacturer directly, or confirm it by using the authorized dealer listings on manufacturers’ Web sites.
At Dive Training magazine, we believe that part of the commitment you make to learn to dive should include acquiring your own dive gear. It’s an excellent investment in yourself and in your diving adventures. Please remember that the service aspects of equipment are important as well.

Reprinted from Dive Training Magazine pickup your FREE copy today at STSC.

Rinsing Your Gear in Fresh Water
You heard it from your instructor (hopefully!) and you've heard it from virtually every dive shop - wash your gear in fresh water after diving!  Everybody does it ... but do they do it right?  Here's some advice on giving your gear the fresh water rinse it deserves.
Warm fresh water is better than cold
But anything fresh and clean will do fine!  If you have the luxury of being able to take your gear home and rinse it in your bathtub this is your best choice!  Use a hose outside for a quick initial rinse before taking your gear into the bathroom.  Then fill your tub with some warm (not hot!) water and gently place your gear, except for neoprene items, in for a 5 minute soak.
Slosh things around a bit to dissolve and dislodge salt and sand particles and then remove them from the rinse.  When all you have left is the wetsuit, boots, gloves and other neoprene items, add a bit of wet suit cleaner to the water and throw them in.  Slosh the stuff around good and then let it soak for about 5 minutes. Drain the tub and rinse with clean water from either the spigot, or shower attachment.  The warm water is better at removing salt deposits and the suit cleaner helps to remove those "special body odors."
ALWAYS REMEMBER !!!
Make sure the dust cap is securely in place on the first stage of your regulator and that you never depress the purge button while washing your regulator.
Be careful with the regulator!
Remember that while the regulator is designed to function underwater it is not designed to be filled with water.  Check the dust cap again to make sure its securely in place on the first stage.  You don't have to grind the yoke screw through it, just make sure its snug!  Next, if you have hose protectors on the hoses it is a good idea to pull them back slightly and rinse underneath.  This is an area most people forget, and one of the first where corrosion takes hold unnoticed!
Some people use colored hose wrap for cosmetic and protective reasons on regulator hoses.  These wraps are a great way to protect hoses from damage and abrasions, but failing to clean under the wrapping can lead to even worse damage.  While you rinse slide the wrapping back and forth gently to flush water underneath and dislodge any grit, sand, or salt crystals from underneath.  About every six months or so it is a good idea to remove the wrap completely and give the hoses a good cleaning and visual inspection.
To purge or not to purge?
While the purge button works very well while the regulator is connected to a tank, allowing air to flow downstream into the second stage and into your lungs, the reverse is a bad thing!  Pushing the purge button on a second stage while washing the regulator will allow water to flow UPSTREAM and into the hoses and the part of the first stage that is supposed to remain DRY!
WARNING:
Flooding a regulator and NOT having it serviced immediately can cause the regulator to fail and free flow without warning!  This is a dangerous situation!
It is highly recommend that after washing the regulator you attach it to a scuba tank and THEN purge the second stages to dry the valve mechanisms and second stage internal housings.  How can you tell if water has entered the 1st stage?  Remove the dust cap and look at the filter in the yoke orifice.  If there is any green discoloration on it you should have your regulator serviced.  If there is any other color present other then silver I recommend having the tanks you use visually inspected for rust or corrosion.
Don't forget the INSIDE of your BCD!
When you let all the air out of your BCD on a dive some water will get inside - guaranteed!  The more that accumulates inside the bladder the worse things will get.  Your BCD is nothing more than a large heavy-duty inner tube and the worst thing is for the inside to get dirty.  When the salt water dries inside it leaves crystals, that can have sharp edges and grind through the material. Just as bad is the mold that can take hold!  When you rinse your gear it is important to remember the inside of the BCD.  Press the oral inflator button while holding a hose (or faucet head) against the mouthpiece.  Add a liter or two of fresh warm water to the inside of the BCD.
If you have a BCD wash solution (available in most dive stores) add the recommended amount before adding the water.  Slosh the water around inside and drain.  Repeat at least once, and more if you used a cleaner solution.  After you've drained as much of the water as possible inflate the BCD at least halfway and hang on a BCD hanger to dry (out of the sun please!).  If its going to be awhile before you use the BCD again it is highly recommend inflating it with air from a scuba tank several times over several days.  Tank air, being 99.9% humidity free will help dry the bladder inside and prevent mold formation.
Lube that Dive Knife!
Here's a fact of life:  Stainless Steel isn't Stainless!  Even the best will rust if you don't take care of it.  When you first buy the knife it is a good idea to take it apart and apply a hefty coating of silicone grease to all metal parts.  Afterwards I recommend applying a thick coating of silicone any time its needed.  The silicone grease keeps saltwater from contacting the blade and thereby protects it from rust taking hold.  Now you may not want to use the knife for cutting your lunch apple without wiping it off first, but it'll last years and still shine if you keep it well lubed up!  Take the time to do a little knife maintenance every time you wash your gear and it will keep a sharp edge and be ready when you need it!
Don't Forget to Rinse The Tanks!
While they are made of painted steel or aluminum you should take a minute to rinse the tanks with some fresh water.  Salt and sand can build up in the valve knob and orifice, o-rings can degrade and crack, and pitting can damage tank surfaces under those black plastic boots.  Since you're rinsing everything else it just makes sense to spray the tanks down too - the guy who has to fill them will appreciate it!
Neoprene - Don't fold it! Roll it!
Packing a suit away for the winter or getting ready for a vacation?  Neoprene has a nasty habit of remembering folds and some may never recover!  If you can't hang a suit all the time it is recommended that you lay it out flat and then roll from the legs upward.  Remember!  Roll, don't just make short folds!  When you get to the top just roll the arms inward so they cross each other.  While hanging is still the best, rolling is well-suited for travel or short term storage.
Things that are BAD for your gear!
Freezing!
Here in the Northeast this is a real issue to deal with.  If you store something wet and it freezes permanent damage may result!  Seams can fail, rubber can crack, ice can cut, etc.  Make sure all your gear is dry if you have to store it in a cold storage room or other unheated area.
Sunshine Isn't Healthy ... for Your Gear!
Believe it or not leaving your gear laying around in the bright and hot sunshine for long periods of time is bad and will lead to drying, rotting, cracking, and fading of various parts of your gear.  Neoprene rubber is affected by ultraviolet light and wetsuits, boots, hoods, gloves etc should not be left hanging in the sun any longer than necessary.
Even better, find a spot in the shade to hang your gear to dry, it may take longer but your gear will last longer!  BCD bladders, Low-Pressure Inflator Hoses, and Regulator components are also affected by prolonged exposure to sunlight.  Once your gear is rinsed, of after it has dried, pack it away and move it into the shade.
Wet Storage.
Okay, having wet gear in the trunk of your car for the drive home won't hurt, but leaving it in there for a week may cause your dive buddy (and even you) to hold your nose the next time you open the gear bag!  This problem is compounded if you're one of those divers who frequently relieves himself (or herself) in the suit (while diving).

Gear Assembly

1…..Stand tank with on/off valve to the right (o-ring is now facing away from you)
2......Remove dust cap on tank valve & check o-ring for integrity
3…..Take BCD and start the strap sequence for the tank buckle
4…..Slide BCD over tank with valve opening facing the back of the BCD
5…..Adjust height and make sure BC is square to the valve
6…..Pull strap tight then close buckle half way
7.....Get another grip on the strap - slowly release buckle while pulling strap tighter then close buckle half way again
8…..Feed strap thru the last slot and close buckle completely
9…..Pickup regulator with large black knob (Yoke Screw)  facing you and regulators to the right - loosen yoke screw to >>>>remove dust cap and release a small amount of air to remove any dust or moisture
10....Now place regulator over valve and finger tighten yoke screw (make sure hoses are in proper position to come >>>>over/under shoulders)
11...SLOWLY turn on air, now turn air on completely
12...Pick-up pressure gauge and check air pressure
13...Test regulators by purging then exhaling and finally breathing through each one.
14...Hook-up low pressure inflator hose to BCD

Gear Disassembly

1….Turn air off
2….Pick-up BC power inflator and push the inflate button until no more air goes into BC
3….Disconnect low pressure inflator hose
4….Pick up one regulator and push the purge to make sure there is no air in the lines
5….Unscrew the yoke screw and remove regulator
6….Dry flat side of the dust cap and replace on opening of the regulator...DO NOT over tighten
7….Lay regulator off to the side and remove BC
8….Fasten velcro and buckle on the waist band.
9….Hold BCD making the shoulder with power inflator the lowest point and drain any water from BC
10...Manually inflate BC with one or two breaths and again drain any remaining water from BC
11...Leave dust cap off tank
12...All gear needs to be rinsed